A relaxed, hip-length quilted jacket made from pre-quilted fabric, so it is warm and cosy without any lining. A pointed shirt collar frames the face, an exposed separating zipper runs down the front, and the full sleeves are gathered with two small pleats into buttoned cuffs with a neat bound placket. Bust darts and back shoulder darts give it a soft shape, and interfaced facings finish the neckline and front edges. Sew it from a patchwork quilted cotton for that cottagecore look, or in a plain quilting for an easy everyday layer over jeans.
Download the free PDF sewing pattern in A4 and US Letter, in 13 sizes from XXS to 4XL (US 00–22, plus sizes included), and sew your own quilted patchwork jacket!
Materials
- Pre-quilted fabric: 1.8–2.3 m (2–2 5/8 yd) of 150 cm (60″) wide fabric, or 2.3–2.7 m (2 5/8–3 yd) of 115 cm (45″) wide fabric. Patchwork quilted cotton, quilted cotton lawn, quilted chambray or a light jersey-backed quilting, about 5 mm (3/16″) thick
- Separating zipper with 7 mm (#5) teeth, for an exposed zipper: 55 cm (22″) for sizes 00–12, 60 cm (24″) for sizes 14–22 (you shorten it to fit)
- Lightweight fusible interfacing, 90 cm (36″) wide: 1.1 m (1 1/4 yd) for the facings, collar, cuffs and sleeve edging
- 2 small buttons, 5 mm (1/4″), one for each cuff
- Matching all-purpose thread, a zipper foot, clips and, if you have one, a walking foot
- Optional: about 6 m (6 1/2 yd) of 12 mm (1/2″) double-fold bias binding for neat seams, and 0.8 m (7/8 yd) of plain cotton for the facings if your quilting is thick
You can also quilt your own fabric: two layers of cotton with a thin batting in between, stitched in squares or lines. Pre-wash quilted cotton, as it can shrink.
Pattern pieces
- Front, quilted fabric: cut 2 (mirror pair)
- Back, quilted fabric: cut 1 (single layer)
- Sleeve, quilted fabric: cut 2 (mirror pair)
- Cuff, quilted fabric + interfacing: cut 2 + 2
- Front Neck Facing, quilted fabric + interfacing: cut 2 + 2 (mirror pair)
- Back Neck Facing, quilted fabric + interfacing: cut 1 + 1
- Collar, quilted fabric + interfacing: cut 2 + 2 (upper and under collar)
- Sleeve Edging (placket binding), quilted fabric + interfacing: cut 2 + 2
The Back, Back Neck Facing and Collar are printed whole, so nothing is cut on a fold. Clip the layers together so the quilting does not shift, and plan where the patchwork squares fall: line them up at the center front and the side seams. Mark the darts, the sleeve opening, the pleats and the cuff button with chalk, since quilted fabric does not take a tracing wheel well. If your quilting is thick, cut the facings and edging from plain cotton.
Download the free PDF sewing pattern
One file per size, in the paper format that suits you. Share your finished jacket with #cozysewpatterns!
A0 + Step-by-step guideGet it here ↓Unzip the folder first. Print page 1 at 100% (actual size) and measure the 10 cm (4″) calibration square before printing the rest. Trim the margins and tape the pages together, matching the markers. The A0 file comes with the illustrated guide below.
Design details and fit
A cosy everyday layer with the look of a vintage quilt. Here is what makes this jacket:
- Length: hip length, ending at the high hip
- Collar: pointed shirt collar, finished with interfaced facings
- Front: exposed separating zipper at the center front
- Shaping: bust darts at the front and shoulder darts at the back
- Sleeves: full set-in sleeves, gathered with two small pleats into buttoned cuffs with a bound placket
- Inside: unlined, the quilted fabric gives the warmth
The fit is relaxed and slightly boxy, with about 7 cm (2 3/4″) of ease at the waist, so it layers easily over a T-shirt, a shirt or a light knit. Go one size up if you want to wear it over a chunky sweater.
Sizing guide
Drafted for a height of 1.68 m (5′6″), ending at the high hip (back length about 64 cm / 25 1/4″ in size 12). Choose your size by bust measurement and blend to a larger size at the hips if needed. The jacket has a relaxed fit, with about 7 cm (2 3/4″) of ease at the waist. For a quilting thicker than 5 mm or to wear it over a warm sweater, go one size up.
Letter sizes: 00 = XXS · 0/2 = XS · 4/6 = S · 8/10 = M · 12/14 = L · 16 = XL · 18 = 2XL · 20 = 3XL · 22 = 4XL
Body measurements (cm)
| cm | 00 | 0 | 2 | 4 | 6 | 8 | 10 | 12 | 14 | 16 | 18 | 20 | 22 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bust | 80 | 82.5 | 85 | 87.8 | 90.3 | 92.8 | 95.3 | 99.3 | 104.3 | 109.3 | 114.3 | 119.3 | 124.3 |
| Waist | 63.5 | 66 | 68.8 | 71.3 | 73.8 | 76.3 | 78.8 | 82.8 | 87.5 | 93.3 | 99 | 104.8 | 110.5 |
| Hips | 87.8 | 90.3 | 92.8 | 95.3 | 98 | 100.3 | 102.8 | 106.5 | 111 | 115.5 | 120.8 | 125.8 | 130.8 |
Body measurements (inches)
| in | 00 | 0 | 2 | 4 | 6 | 8 | 10 | 12 | 14 | 16 | 18 | 20 | 22 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bust | 31.5 | 32.5 | 33.5 | 34.5 | 35.5 | 36.5 | 37.5 | 39.1 | 41.0 | 43.0 | 45.0 | 47.0 | 48.9 |
| Waist | 25.0 | 26.0 | 27.1 | 28.0 | 29.0 | 30.0 | 31.0 | 32.6 | 34.5 | 36.8 | 39.0 | 41.2 | 43.5 |
| Hips | 34.5 | 35.5 | 36.5 | 37.5 | 38.6 | 39.5 | 40.5 | 41.9 | 43.8 | 45.5 | 47.5 | 49.5 | 51.5 |
Finished garment measurements (cm)
| cm | 00 | 0 | 2 | 4 | 6 | 8 | 10 | 12 | 14 | 16 | 18 | 20 | 22 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Waist | 70.5 | 73 | 75.8 | 78.2 | 80.8 | 83.4 | 85.9 | 90 | 94.9 | 100.7 | 106.6 | 112.5 | 118.3 |
| Hips | 93.2 | 95.8 | 98.7 | 101.9 | 105.5 | 108.9 | 112 | 116.2 | 120.9 | 126.4 | 131.8 | 137.5 | 142.7 |
| Back length | 63.3 | 63.5 | 64.1 | 64.2 | 64.3 | 64.2 | 64.4 | 64.3 | 64.5 | 64.8 | 65.4 | 66 | 66.3 |
| Sleeve | 55.2 | 55.2 | 55.3 | 55.3 | 55.4 | 55.4 | 55.4 | 55.5 | 55.6 | 55.6 | 55.7 | 55.8 | 55.9 |
Fabric and notions per size
| Sizes 00–6 | Sizes 8–14 | Sizes 16–22 | |
|---|---|---|---|
| 150 cm / 60″ wide | 1.8 m / 2 yd | 2.1 m / 2 3/8 yd | 2.3 m / 2 5/8 yd |
| 115 cm / 45″ wide | 2.3 m / 2 5/8 yd | 2.4 m / 2 5/8 yd | 2.7 m / 3 yd |
| Interfacing 90 cm / 36″ | 1.1 m / 1 1/4 yd | 1.1 m / 1 1/4 yd | 1.1 m / 1 1/4 yd |
| Separating zipper #5 | 55 cm (22″) | 55 cm (8–12) · 60 cm (14) | 60 cm (24″) |
| Buttons 5 mm (1/4″) | 2 | 2 | 2 |
Common fit adjustments
- Longer or shorter jacket: change the lower edge of the Front, Back and Front Neck Facing by the same amount, and buy a zipper to match.
- Longer or shorter arms: adjust the sleeve length at the lower edge before cutting; the cuffs stay the same.
- Hips larger than your bust: blend from your bust size to your hip size between the waist and the hem.
- Thick quilting (over 5 mm): choose one size up and cut the facings and edging from a plain cotton.
Sewing notes
Fit and style
A relaxed, boxy jacket with a little shaping from the darts. To change the length, add or remove the same amount at the lower edge of the Front, Back and Front Neck Facing, and buy a zipper to match. The sleeves are full and blouse softly over the cuffs.
Cutting out
Fuse interfacing to the cuffs, facings, collar and edging before you start. After each seam, trim the batting out of the seam allowances close to the stitching so the seams lie flat, then finish the edges with an overlocker, zigzag or bias binding.
Choosing fabric
Best fabrics: pre-quilted cotton, double-sided or with a backing: patchwork quilted cotton, quilted cotton lawn, quilted chambray or a light jersey-backed quilting, about 5 mm (3/16″) thick. You can also quilt your own from two cottons with a thin batting in between, or upcycle an old quilt or patchwork throw.
Fabrics to avoid:
- Very thick or puffy quilting, which makes the collar and cuffs bulky
- Quilted fabric with long, loose quilting stitches that unravel when cut
- Slippery quilted satin or nylon, which is harder to sew
- Stretchy knits without a backing
Pre-wash your fabric, as quilted cotton can shrink. Sew with a walking foot (or lower presser foot pressure) and a 3–3.5 mm stitch, and test the interfacing and a buttonhole on a scrap first.
Step-by-Step Sewing Instructions
Seam allowances are 1 cm (3/8″). Sew with right sides together, trim the batting out of each seam allowance and finish the edges as you go.
- Sew the bust and back shoulder darts.
- Join the shoulders.
- Make the shirt collar.
- Baste the collar to the neckline.
- Insert the exposed front zipper.
- Attach the neck facings and understitch.
- Sew the side seams.
- Make the bound sleeve placket.
- Set in the sleeves.
- Pleat the sleeves and attach the cuffs.
- Hem the jacket.
- Make the cuff buttonholes and sew on the buttons.
Stuck on a step? Sew it with pictures.
The full illustrated guide for the Quilted Patchwork Jacket shows every step in clear drawings, from the shirt collar to the exposed zipper and the pleated cuffs.
- A diagram for every step, 16 pages
- Size charts, finished measurements and fabric amounts
- Tips for sewing quilted fabric + video guides with QR codes
- A0 + Step-by-step guide · instant PDF download
Español · Italiano · Deutsch · Français · Nederlands…
Buy the guide, then email us your language. Free, delivered in 48–72h.
♥ Every guide you buy keeps our patterns free.
Tips and common mistakes
- Bulky seams: trim the batting out of each seam allowance close to the stitching, so the seams lie flat.
- Layers shifting: hold the quilted layers with clips instead of pins, and let a walking foot feed them evenly.
- Zipper sides not matching: baste the zipper first and check that both sides meet at the collar and the hem before you stitch.
- Flat, shiny quilting: press with steam through a pressing cloth and do not push down hard on the iron.
- Patchwork squares out of line: plan where the squares fall before cutting, and line them up at the center front.
How to style it
- Everyday: with straight or wide-leg jeans and a simple white top.
- Cosy autumn: over a knit dress with ankle boots.
- More to sew: pair it with our free Barrel Leg Pants or High-Waisted Barrel Trousers, a Fitted Turtleneck Top underneath, or wear it over the Corduroy Pinafore Dress.
Care
Wash quilted cotton cold on a gentle cycle, inside out with the zipper closed, then hang or dry flat. Skip the tumble dryer: it can shrink the batting and pucker the quilting. Press lightly with steam through a cloth.
Questions
Is the pattern really free?
Yes. The A4 and US Letter pattern files are free. The illustrated step-by-step guide and the A0 file are available for a small coffee.
Is it suitable for beginners?
Yes, for confident beginners. There is no lining, and the new skills (an exposed zipper, a shirt collar, a sleeve placket and cuffs) are all explained step by step. The quilted fabric is stable and forgiving to sew.
Can I make my own quilted fabric?
Yes. Layer two cottons with a thin batting in between and quilt them in squares or straight lines before cutting. Old quilts and patchwork throws also make lovely quilted jackets.
What seam allowance is included?
1 cm (3/8″) on all seams, 7 mm (1/4″) on the sleeve edging and 2 cm (3/4″) at the hem. They are all included in the pattern.
Which paper sizes can I print?
A4 and US Letter are free to download, one file per size. The A0 file comes with the illustrated guide.
Which size should I choose?
Choose by your bust measurement and blend to a larger size at the hips if needed. Go one size up for a thick quilting or to wear it over a warm sweater.
Is the jacket lined?
No, it is unlined: the quilted fabric gives it warmth and body. For a neat inside, bind the seams with bias binding.
Happy sewing!
