A fitted, knee-length coat with a romantic vintage feel. Armhole princess seams at the front and back follow the waist closely, then open into a full, swingy skirt that moves as you walk. A softly rounded collar, a long row of thirteen small buttons and two flap pockets at the waist finish the look. The coat is unlined, with interfaced facings at the front edges and neckline, so it is lighter to sew than a fully lined coat and perfect for crisp autumn days and the holidays.
Download the free PDF sewing pattern in A4 and US Letter, in 13 sizes from XXS to 4XL (US 00–22, plus sizes included), and sew your own fit and flare princess seam coat!
Materials
- Main fabric: 3.1–3.9 m (3 1/2–4 3/8 yd) of 150 cm (60″) wide fabric, or 3.9–4.8 m (4 3/8–5 1/4 yd) of 115 cm (45″) wide fabric. A medium-weight wool or wool-blend coating, wool flannel, light melton, cashmere blend, fine tweed or heavy wool crepe; cotton twill, gabardine or fine corduroy for a spring coat
- Lining fabric for the inner pocket bags: 0.3 m (3/8 yd)
- Light to medium fusible interfacing, 90 cm (36″) wide: 1.2 m (1 3/8 yd) for sizes 00–16, 1.5 m (1 5/8 yd) for sizes 18–22
- 13 buttons, 1 cm (3/8″) across (14 for size 22), plus one spare
- Matching all-purpose thread, a buttonhole foot, tailor’s chalk, a pressing cloth and a tailor’s ham
The coat is unlined, so pick a fabric that looks tidy on the inside and does not fray much. Avoid very thick or fluffy coatings: the collar, the flaps and 13 buttonholes would get bulky.
Pattern pieces
- Center Front, main fabric: cut 2 (mirror pair)
- Side Front, main fabric: cut 2 (mirror pair)
- Center Back, main fabric: cut 1 (single layer)
- Side Back, main fabric: cut 2 (mirror pair)
- Sleeve, main fabric: cut 2 (mirror pair)
- Front Neck Facing, main fabric + interfacing: cut 2 + 2
- Back Neck Facing, main fabric + interfacing: cut 1 + 1
- Collar, main fabric + interfacing: cut 2 + 2 (upper and under collar)
- Flap, main fabric + interfacing: cut 4 + 4
- Welt, main fabric: cut 4
- Inner Pocket Bag, lining: cut 2
- Outer Pocket Bag, main fabric: cut 2
- No pattern piece: two interfacing strips of 5 × 16 cm (2 × 6 1/4″) to back the pocket openings
The Center Back, Back Neck Facing and Collar are printed whole: open the fabric out and cut them on a single layer, not on a fold. Transfer the waist lines, the pocket box (it crosses the princess seam), the center front marks, the button and buttonhole marks and the ease circles on the sleeve cap.
Download the free PDF sewing pattern
One file per size, in the paper format that suits you. Share your finished coat with #cozysewpatterns!
A0 + Step-by-step guideGet it here ↓Unzip the folder first. Print page 1 at 100% (actual size) and measure the 10 cm (4″) calibration square before printing the rest. Trim the margins and tape the pages together, matching the markers. The A0 file comes with the illustrated guide below.
Design details and fit
A fitted, knee-length coat with a vintage feel: it follows your waist closely, then flares out into a full, swingy skirt. Here is what makes it:
- Shaping: armhole princess seams at the front and back
- Silhouette: fitted waist and a flared, knee-length skirt
- Collar: a softly rounded collar with a gentle roll
- Front: a long row of 13 small buttons (14 for size 22)
- Pockets: double-welt pockets with rounded flaps at the waist
- Sleeves: full-length set-in sleeves
- Inside: unlined, with interfaced front and neck facings
The coat is fitted at the waist with about 7–8 cm (2 3/4–3 1/8″) of ease, so it sits nicely over a blouse or a fine knit rather than a thick sweater.
Sizing guide
Drafted for a height of 1.68 m (5′6″), ending around the knee (back length about 99 cm / 39″ in size 12) with full-length sleeves. Choose your size by bust measurement, then check the finished waist: the coat has only about 7–8 cm (2 3/4–3 1/8″) of ease at the waist, so it sits nicely over a blouse or a fine knit, not over a thick sweater. If your waist is larger, blend to the larger size at the waist.
Letter sizes: 00 = XXS · 0/2 = XS · 4/6 = S · 8/10 = M · 12/14 = L · 16 = XL · 18 = 2XL · 20 = 3XL · 22 = 4XL
Body measurements (cm)
| cm | 00 | 0 | 2 | 4 | 6 | 8 | 10 | 12 | 14 | 16 | 18 | 20 | 22 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bust | 80 | 82.5 | 85 | 87.8 | 90.3 | 92.8 | 95.3 | 99.3 | 104.3 | 109.3 | 114.3 | 119.3 | 124.3 |
| Waist | 63.5 | 66 | 68.8 | 71.3 | 73.8 | 76.3 | 78.8 | 82.8 | 87.5 | 93.3 | 99 | 104.8 | 110.5 |
| Hips | 87.8 | 90.3 | 92.8 | 95.3 | 98 | 100.3 | 102.8 | 106.5 | 111 | 115.5 | 120.8 | 125.8 | 130.8 |
Body measurements (inches)
| in | 00 | 0 | 2 | 4 | 6 | 8 | 10 | 12 | 14 | 16 | 18 | 20 | 22 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bust | 31.5 | 32.5 | 33.5 | 34.5 | 35.5 | 36.5 | 37.5 | 39.1 | 41.0 | 43.0 | 45.0 | 47.0 | 48.9 |
| Waist | 25.0 | 26.0 | 27.1 | 28.0 | 29.0 | 30.0 | 31.0 | 32.6 | 34.5 | 36.8 | 39.0 | 41.2 | 43.5 |
| Hips | 34.5 | 35.5 | 36.5 | 37.5 | 38.6 | 39.5 | 40.5 | 41.9 | 43.8 | 45.5 | 47.5 | 49.5 | 51.5 |
Finished garment measurements (cm)
| cm | 00 | 0 | 2 | 4 | 6 | 8 | 10 | 12 | 14 | 16 | 18 | 20 | 22 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Waist | 70.5 | 73 | 75.8 | 78.2 | 80.8 | 83.4 | 85.9 | 90 | 94.9 | 100.7 | 106.6 | 112.5 | 118.3 |
| Low hip* | 93.2 | 95.8 | 98.7 | 101.9 | 105.5 | 108.9 | 112 | 116.2 | 120.9 | 126.4 | 131.8 | 137.5 | 142.7 |
| Back length | 98.1 | 98.1 | 98.3 | 98.4 | 98.3 | 98.3 | 98.4 | 98.9 | 99 | 98.9 | 99.2 | 99.3 | 99.6 |
| Sleeve | 57.9 | 57.9 | 58 | 58 | 58 | 58.1 | 58.1 | 58.2 | 58.2 | 58.3 | 58.4 | 58.5 | 58.5 |
Fabric and notions per size
| Sizes 00–6 | Sizes 8–14 | Sizes 16–22 | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Main 150 cm / 60″ | 3.1 m / 3 1/2 yd | 3.4 m / 3 3/4 yd | 3.9 m / 4 3/8 yd |
| Main 115 cm / 45″ | 3.9 m / 4 3/8 yd | 4.2 m / 4 5/8 yd | 4.8 m / 5 1/4 yd |
| Interfacing 90 cm / 36″ | 1.2 m / 1 3/8 yd | 1.2 m / 1 3/8 yd | 1.2 m (16) · 1.5 m / 1 5/8 yd (18–22) |
| Pocket lining | 0.3 m / 3/8 yd | 0.3 m / 3/8 yd | 0.3 m / 3/8 yd |
| Buttons 1 cm (3/8″) | 13 | 13 | 13 (14 for size 22) |
Common fit adjustments
- Longer or shorter coat: change the lower edge of the Center Front, Side Front, Center Back, Side Back and Front Neck Facing by the same amount, following the flare of the side lines.
- Choose by bust, check the waist: compare the finished waist with your own; if you are between sizes there, take the larger one.
- Over thicker layers: the coat is made for a blouse or fine knit; for a chunky sweater, go up one size.
- Sleeve length: compare with a coat you own and adjust at the lower sleeve edge before cutting.
Sewing notes
Fit and style
A close-fitting bodice and a full, flared skirt: the waist lines on the front pieces show where your waist should sit. To lengthen or shorten, change the lower edge of the Center Front, Side Front, Center Back, Side Back and Front Neck Facing by the same amount, following the flare of the side lines. Try the coat on after the side seams, with the fronts pinned closed.
Cutting out
Fold the fabric right sides together and cut the mirrored pieces through the double layer; place the Flap and Welt twice to get four of each. Fuse interfacing to the facings, collars and flaps before you start sewing, and fuse the two small strips behind the pocket openings. Sew a test buttonhole on a scrap of your fabric.
Choosing fabric
Best fabrics: medium-weight woven coatings that press well and hold a crisp collar: wool coating, wool-blend coating, wool flannel, light melton, cashmere blend, fine tweed or heavy wool crepe. For a spring coat, try cotton twill, gabardine or fine corduroy.
Fabrics to avoid:
- Very thick or fluffy coatings: the collar, pockets and 13 buttonholes get too bulky
- Stretch fabrics, which lose the fitted shape
- Fabrics that fray a lot: the coat is unlined, so the inside shows
Pre-wash or steam your fabric the way you will care for the coat, and add 10–15% for plaids, stripes, velvet or one-way prints.
Step-by-Step Sewing Instructions
Seam allowances are 1 cm (3/8″). Sew with right sides together and press every seam before you cross it with another.
- Sew the front princess seams, easing the side front over the bust.
- Sew the back princess seams.
- Prepare the flap pockets: flaps, welts and the two stitching lines.
- Cut and finish the flap pockets and close the pocket bags.
- Sew the shoulder seams.
- Sew the side seams and check the fit.
- Make the rounded collar.
- Baste the collar to the neckline.
- Sew the facings and understitch the front edges.
- Set in the sleeves and hem them.
- Hem the coat, easing in the flared hem.
- Make 13 buttonholes and sew on the buttons.
- Final press with a pressing cloth.
Stuck on a step? Sew it with pictures.
The full illustrated guide for the Fit & Flare Princess Seam Coat shows every step in clear drawings, from the princess seams and flap pockets to the collar and the 13 buttonholes.
- A diagram for every step, 20 pages
- Size charts, finished measurements and fabric amounts
- Wool pressing tips + video guides with QR codes
- A0 file included · instant PDF download
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♥ Every guide you buy keeps our patterns free.
Tips and common mistakes
- Wobbly welt pockets: make one on a scrap first, mark the box precisely, stitch both lines exactly the same length and cut right up to the corners.
- Stretched princess seams: press, lift and move the iron instead of sliding it, and let the fabric cool flat.
- Shiny wool: always press through a pressing cloth with a medium-hot iron and plenty of steam.
- Uneven buttonholes: test one on your fabric with interfacing, then mark all 13 from the pattern before you start.
- Messy inside: finish each seam allowance as you go, or bind them with bias tape for a Hong Kong finish.
How to style it
- Classic: over a black turtleneck with knee-high boots, as in the photo; try our free Fitted Turtleneck Top.
- Office: over a midi dress or skirt.
- Colour ideas: camel or charcoal wool for a classic, or deep red or forest green for the holidays.
- More coats: for a collar stand and welt pockets, see our Mandarin Collar Coat.
Care
Follow the care instructions of your fabric. For wool and wool blends, dry-clean or hand-wash cold and dry flat. Store the coat on a padded hanger so the shoulders keep their shape.
Questions
Is the pattern really free?
Yes. The A4 and US Letter pattern files are free. The illustrated step-by-step guide and the A0 file are available for a small coffee.
Is this coat hard to sew?
It is an intermediate project. The princess seams, collar and facings are simple when you sew slowly, and there is no lining to bag. The flap pockets with welts are the trickiest part: make one on a scrap first and cut exactly into the corners. Thirteen buttonholes also take patience, so test one on your fabric.
The coat is unlined: how do I finish the inside?
Finish the seam allowances separately with an overlocker or zigzag stitch and press them open. For a very neat inside, you can bind the seam allowances with bias tape (a Hong Kong finish). The front edges and neckline are already clean thanks to the facings.
What seam allowance is included?
1 cm (3/8″) on all seams, 1.5 cm (5/8″) on the pocket bags and 2 cm (3/4″) on the coat and sleeve hems. They are all included in the pattern.
Which size should I choose?
Choose by your bust, then check the finished waist: the coat is fitted there. Between two sizes at the waist, take the larger one.
Which paper sizes can I print?
A4 and US Letter are free to download, one file per size. The A0 file comes with the illustrated guide.
What should I sew next?
Under the coat, our Fitted Turtleneck Top #CS1005 gives you the look from the photo. For a different coat, try the Double-Breasted Coat #CS1015 or the Mandarin Collar Coat #CS1001, free too.
Happy sewing!
