A classic double-breasted coat that ends at mid-thigh, with notched lapels, two rows of six buttons and a soft tie belt that slides through two loops at the side fronts. Princess seams from the armholes shape it at the front and back, so it nips in at the waist without darts, and two big patch pockets with rounded corners sit low on the front. The sleeves are cut in two pieces for a tailored line, and the whole coat is fully lined, with a pleat in the back lining for easy movement. It is the kind of autumn and winter coat you wear every day, over jeans, trousers or a midi dress.
Download the free PDF sewing pattern in A4 and US Letter, in 13 sizes from XXS to 4XL (US 00–22, plus sizes included), and sew your own double-breasted belted coat!
Materials
- Main fabric: 2.5–3.0 m (2 3/4–3 3/8 yd) of 150 cm (60″) wide fabric, or 3.0–3.8 m (3 3/8–4 1/4 yd) of 115 cm (45″) wide fabric. A medium-weight wool or wool-blend coating, melton, wool flannel, tweed or soft bouclé for winter; gabardine, cotton twill or drill for a spring coat
- Lining: 1.5–1.7 m (1 3/4–1 7/8 yd) of 150 cm (60″) wide, or 1.7–2.3 m (1 7/8–2 5/8 yd) of 115 cm (45″) wide: viscose (rayon) twill, Bemberg, acetate or a smooth satin lining
- Medium-weight fusible interfacing (weft or woven fusible for wool), 90 cm (36″) wide: 2.5–2.9 m (2 3/4–3 1/8 yd)
- 12 buttons, 15 mm (5/8″) across, plus 1 flat button for the optional inside button
- 1 pair of set-in shoulder pads, 1 cm (3/8″) thick
- Matching all-purpose thread, a 90/14 needle, tailor’s chalk, a pressing cloth, a tailor’s ham and, if you have one, a clapper and a walking foot
Choose a coating that presses well and is not too thick: the lapels, collar and front edges have several layers. Pre-shrink wool with steam before cutting.
Pattern pieces
- Center Front, main fabric + interfacing: cut 2 + 2 (mirror pair)
- Side Front, main fabric: cut 2 (mirror pair)
- Center Back, main fabric: cut 2 (mirror pair)
- Side Back, main fabric: cut 2 (mirror pair)
- Front Neck Facing, main fabric + interfacing: cut 2 + 2
- Back Neck Facing, main fabric + interfacing: cut 1 + 1
- Upper Collar and Lower Collar, main fabric + interfacing: cut 1 + 1 each
- Belt, main fabric + interfacing: cut 1 + 1
- Patch Pocket, main fabric: cut 2
- Belt Loops, main fabric: cut 1 strip (cut in two later)
- Upper Sleeve and Lower Sleeve, main fabric: cut 2 each (mirror pairs)
- Front Lining, Side Back Lining, Upper and Lower Sleeve Lining, lining: cut 2 each (mirror pairs)
- Center Back Lining, lining: cut 1 (with a back pleat)
Every piece is printed whole, so nothing is cut on a fold. The back neck facing, collars, belt and center back lining are cut once on a single layer. Transfer the button and buttonhole marks, the center front line, the lapel roll line, the pocket outline and the belt loop box. The belt is the longest piece (2.1–2.6 m): to save fabric, cut it in two halves and join them at the back.
Download the free PDF sewing pattern
One file per size, in the paper format that suits you. Share your finished coat with #cozysewpatterns!
A0 + Step-by-step guideGet it here ↓Unzip the folder first. Print page 1 at 100% (actual size) and measure the 10 cm (4″) calibration square before printing the rest. Trim the margins and tape the pages together, matching the markers. The A0 file comes with the illustrated guide below.
Design details and fit
A fully lined, double-breasted coat that ends at mid-thigh, with a tailored shape and a tie belt. Here is what makes it:
- Front: double-breasted, with 12 buttons in two rows of six
- Collar: notched lapels with an upper and lower collar
- Shaping: armhole princess seams at the front and back, and a centre back seam
- Sleeves: two-piece set-in sleeves, drafted for 1 cm (3/8″) shoulder pads
- Pockets: two patch pockets with rounded corners
- Belt: a 4 cm (1 5/8″) tie belt through two side loops
- Inside: fully lined, with a back pleat in the lining for movement
The coat has about 12–17 cm (4 3/4–6 3/4″) of ease at the bust and about 14–16 cm at the waist, enough to wear it over a light sweater.
Sizing guide
Drafted for a height of 1.68 m (5′6″), ending at mid-thigh (back length about 88 cm / 34 5/8″ in size 12) with sleeves to the wrist. Choose your size by bust measurement and blend to a larger size at the hips if needed. The coat has about 12–17 cm (4 3/4–6 3/4″) of ease at the bust, enough to wear it over a light sweater. For a thick coating or a chunky knit underneath, go one size up.
Letter sizes: 00 = XXS · 0/2 = XS · 4/6 = S · 8/10 = M · 12/14 = L · 16 = XL · 18 = 2XL · 20 = 3XL · 22 = 4XL
Body measurements (cm)
| cm | 00 | 0 | 2 | 4 | 6 | 8 | 10 | 12 | 14 | 16 | 18 | 20 | 22 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bust | 80 | 82.5 | 85 | 87.8 | 90.3 | 92.8 | 95.3 | 99.3 | 104.3 | 109.3 | 114.3 | 119.3 | 124.3 |
| Waist | 63.5 | 66 | 68.8 | 71.3 | 73.8 | 76.3 | 78.8 | 82.8 | 87.5 | 93.3 | 99 | 104.8 | 110.5 |
| Hips | 87.8 | 90.3 | 92.8 | 95.3 | 98 | 100.3 | 102.8 | 106.5 | 111 | 115.5 | 120.8 | 125.8 | 130.8 |
Body measurements (inches)
| in | 00 | 0 | 2 | 4 | 6 | 8 | 10 | 12 | 14 | 16 | 18 | 20 | 22 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bust | 31.5 | 32.5 | 33.5 | 34.5 | 35.5 | 36.5 | 37.5 | 39.1 | 41.0 | 43.0 | 45.0 | 47.0 | 48.9 |
| Waist | 25.0 | 26.0 | 27.1 | 28.0 | 29.0 | 30.0 | 31.0 | 32.6 | 34.5 | 36.8 | 39.0 | 41.2 | 43.5 |
| Hips | 34.5 | 35.5 | 36.5 | 37.5 | 38.6 | 39.5 | 40.5 | 41.9 | 43.8 | 45.5 | 47.5 | 49.5 | 51.5 |
Finished garment measurements (cm)
| cm | 00 | 0 | 2 | 4 | 6 | 8 | 10 | 12 | 14 | 16 | 18 | 20 | 22 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bust | 92 | 94.5 | 97.4 | 100 | 102.8 | 105.5 | 108.1 | 112.4 | 117.4 | 123.5 | 129.5 | 135.6 | 141.6 |
| Waist | 77.5 | 80 | 82.8 | 85.2 | 87.9 | 90.5 | 93.1 | 97.3 | 102.2 | 108.2 | 114.2 | 120.2 | 126.1 |
| Hips | 98.8 | 101.2 | 104.2 | 107.4 | 111.1 | 114.6 | 117.7 | 122 | 126.8 | 132.5 | 137.9 | 143.8 | 149.1 |
| Hem width | 108.6 | 111.1 | 114.1 | 117.3 | 120.9 | 124.5 | 127.6 | 131.9 | 136.7 | 142.3 | 147.8 | 153.6 | 159 |
| Back length | 87.2 | 87.1 | 87.4 | 87.6 | 87.7 | 87.8 | 87.8 | 88.1 | 88.2 | 88.3 | 88.7 | 88.9 | 89.3 |
| Sleeve | 58.5 | 58.6 | 58.6 | 58.7 | 58.8 | 58.8 | 58.9 | 59 | 59.1 | 59.2 | 59.3 | 59.4 | 59.6 |
Fabric and notions per size
| Sizes 00–6 | Sizes 8–14 | Sizes 16–22 | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Main 150 cm / 60″ | 2.5 m / 2 3/4 yd | 2.6 m / 2 7/8 yd | 3.0 m / 3 3/8 yd |
| Main 115 cm / 45″ | 3.0 m / 3 3/8 yd | 3.3 m / 3 5/8 yd | 3.8 m / 4 1/4 yd |
| Lining 150 cm / 60″ | 1.5 m / 1 3/4 yd | 1.6 m / 1 3/4 yd | 1.7 m / 1 7/8 yd |
| Lining 115 cm / 45″ | 1.7 m / 1 7/8 yd | 2.0 m / 2 1/4 yd | 2.3 m / 2 5/8 yd |
| Interfacing 90 cm / 36″ | 2.5 m / 2 3/4 yd | 2.6 m / 2 7/8 yd | 2.9 m / 3 1/8 yd |
| Buttons 15 mm (5/8″) | 12 + 1 | 12 + 1 | 12 + 1 |
| Shoulder pads 1 cm | 1 pair | 1 pair | 1 pair |
Common fit adjustments
- Longer or shorter coat: change the lower edge of pieces 1 to 8 by the same amount and keep the 4 cm hem.
- Longer or shorter sleeves: change the sleeves and sleeve linings (15 to 18) by the same amount.
- Thick coating: in heavy melton or boiled wool (over about 3 mm), choose one size up.
- Over a chunky sweater: go up one size.
Sewing notes
Fit and style
A tailored, gently fitted coat: the princess seams shape the waist and the belt pulls it in further. To change the length, add or remove the same amount at the lower edge of all body and lining pieces, keeping the 4 cm hem, and do the same on the sleeves and sleeve linings. Try the coat on after the side seams, before the sleeves go in.
Cutting out
Lay every piece in the same direction if your coating has a nap. Fuse interfacing to the center fronts, facings, collars and belt, and fuse strips along the hems, shoulders and armholes of the other body pieces. Mark with chalk or tailor’s tacks, and snip notches no deeper than 3 mm (1/8″).
Choosing fabric
Best fabrics: medium-weight wool or wool-blend coating, melton, wool flannel, tweed or a soft bouclé for autumn and winter; gabardine, cotton twill or drill for a lighter spring coat. Lining: viscose (rayon) twill, Bemberg, acetate or a smooth satin lining.
Fabrics to avoid:
- Very thick coatings: the lapels, collar and front edges have several layers
- Stretch fabrics, which pull out of shape at the buttons
- Sticky or very slippery linings that make the coat hard to slip on
Pre-shrink wool with steam before cutting. Add about 10% for a napped fabric or for checks to match.
Step-by-Step Sewing Instructions
Seam allowances are 1 cm (3/8″). Sew with right sides together and press every seam before you cross it with another.
- Interface and mark all the pieces.
- Sew the princess seams on the front and back.
- Sew the patch pockets on across the front seams.
- Make and attach the belt loops.
- Join the center back and shoulders.
- Sew the side seams and check the fit.
- Set in the two-piece sleeves and add shoulder pads.
- Attach the lower collar.
- Join the facings and the upper collar.
- Assemble the lining with its back pleat and sleeves.
- Bag the lining at the collar, lapels and fronts.
- Turn and press the lapels and front edges.
- Hem the coat, sleeves and lining.
- Make the buttonholes, sew on 12 buttons and make the belt.
Stuck on a step? Sew it with pictures.
The full illustrated guide for the Double-Breasted Coat shows every step in clear drawings, from the notched lapels and two-piece sleeves to the bagged lining and the tie belt.
- A diagram for every step, 28 pages
- Size charts, finished measurements and fabric amounts
- Lining step by step + video guides with QR codes
- A0 file included · instant PDF download
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Tips and common mistakes
- Tricky collar notch: mark the dots precisely when joining the lining, baste first and check one side before sewing.
- Bulky seams: grade them by trimming the layers to different widths.
- Flat-looking wool: press every seam with steam through a cloth, then flatten it with a clapper while it cools.
- Bubbling interfacing: test it on a scrap first: it must not bubble or show through.
- Buttonhole trouble: sew with a 90/14 needle and a 3 mm stitch, and test a buttonhole through all the layers.
How to style it
- Belted: over a fine knit and straight trousers with loafers; our Fitted Turtleneck Top works well underneath.
- Open: over a midi dress and knee boots.
- Weekend: with jeans, a white shirt and ankle boots.
- More coats: for a fitted, flared silhouette, see our Fit & Flare Princess Seam Coat.
Care
Follow the care instructions of your fabric. Wool coats are best dry-cleaned or spot-cleaned and steamed. Hang the coat on a shaped hanger so the shoulders keep their shape.
Questions
Is the pattern really free?
Yes. The A4 and US Letter pattern files are free. The illustrated step-by-step guide and the A0 file are available for a small coffee.
Is a lined coat too hard for me?
It is an intermediate project. If you have set in a sleeve and sewn curved seams before, you can make it: the notched collar and the bagged lining are new for many sewists, but they are just careful seams sewn in the right order. Take your time at the collar notch and baste before you stitch.
Can I make it without the belt?
Yes. Simply leave out the belt and the belt loops: the princess seams still give the coat a shaped waist, and it looks lovely worn open.
What seam allowance is included?
1 cm (3/8″) on all seams, 4 cm (1 5/8″) on the coat and sleeve hems and 1 cm on the lining hems. The patch pockets have 2 cm (3/4″) at the top and 1.5 cm (5/8″) on the sides and bottom. All are included.
Which size should I choose?
Choose from your body measurements, not your ready-to-wear size. Go one size up for a thick coating or to wear the coat over a chunky sweater.
Which paper sizes can I print?
A4 and US Letter are free to download, one file per size. The A0 file comes with the illustrated guide.
What should I sew next?
For a coat with a different look, try our Mandarin Collar Coat #CS1001. Underneath, our Fitted Turtleneck Top #CS1005 and High-Waisted Barrel Trousers #CS1009 are free too and complete the outfit.
Happy sewing!
