Tailored, high-waisted trousers with a curved barrel leg: full through the knee and curving in to an ankle-length hem. Two soft pleats on each front shape the leg, slanted pockets sit at the hips, and a welt pocket sewn across a small dart finishes each back. They close with a classic fly zipper and a straight waistband with one button, for a crisper look than an elastic back.
Download the free PDF sewing pattern in A4 and US Letter, and sew your own barrel trousers!
Materials
- Main fabric: 1.5–2.2 m (1 3/4–2 1/2 yd) of 150 cm (60″) wide fabric, or 2.3–2.5 m (2 5/8–2 3/4 yd) of 115 cm (45″) wide fabric. Choose a medium-weight woven with some body: cotton twill, light denim (6–9 oz), linen or linen blend, Tencel twill, soft wool suiting or fine-wale corduroy
- Pocket lining: 0.4 m (1/2 yd) of cotton poplin, lawn or pocketing
- Fusible interfacing: 0.4 m (1/2 yd), 90 cm (36″) wide
- Trouser zipper (closed end): 20 cm (8″) for sizes 00–10, 23 cm (9″) for sizes 12–22
- One 10–12 mm (3/8–1/2″) button and all-purpose thread
No stretch is needed. Avoid very drapey fabrics such as rayon challis or crepe: the barrel shape would collapse. Pre-wash your fabric and lining, because cotton and linen can shrink 3–5%.
Pattern pieces
- Pants Front, main fabric: cut 2
- Pants Back, main fabric: cut 2
- Waistband, main fabric + interfacing: cut 1 + 1
- Pocket Bag, main fabric: cut 2
- Fly Facing, main fabric: cut 1
- Pocket Lining, lining: cut 2
- Fly Interfacing: cut 1
- Back Pocket Welt, main fabric + interfacing: cut 2 + 2
- Back Inner Pocket Bag, lining: cut 2
- Back Outer Pocket Bag, lining: cut 2
Fold the fabric right sides together and keep every grainline parallel to the selvage to get mirrored pairs. Cut the left front along the inner line marked CUT ON LEFT FRONT, the right front along the outer edge. The waistband is drawn as one full piece: cut it once on a single layer.
💡 Not sure which fabric or length to choose? Read our Barrel Leg Pants fabric, fit and styling guide before you cut.
Download the free PDF sewing pattern
One file per size, in the paper format that suits you. Share your finished trousers with #cozysewpatterns!
A0 + Step-by-step guideGet it here ↓Unzip the folder first. Print page 1 at 100% (actual size) and measure the 10 cm (4″) calibration square before printing the rest. Trim the margins and tape the pages together, matching the markers. The A0 file comes with the illustrated guide below.
Sizing guide
Drafted for a height of 1.68 m (5′6″) and an ankle length. Choose your size by hip measurement, then check the waist: the waistband does not stretch, so if your waist and hips fall in different sizes, cut the waistband and top of the pants in your waist size and blend to the hip size at the side seams.
Letter sizes: 00 = XXS · 0/2 = XS · 4/6 = S · 8/10 = M · 12/14 = L · 16 = XL · 18 = 2XL · 20 = 3XL · 22 = 4XL
Body measurements (cm)
| cm | 00 | 0 | 2 | 4 | 6 | 8 | 10 | 12 | 14 | 16 | 18 | 20 | 22 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Waist | 63.5 | 66 | 68.75 | 71.25 | 73.75 | 76.25 | 78.75 | 82.75 | 87.5 | 93.25 | 99 | 104.75 | 110.5 |
| Hips | 87.75 | 90.25 | 92.75 | 95.25 | 98 | 100.25 | 102.75 | 106.5 | 111 | 115.5 | 120.75 | 125.75 | 130.75 |
Body measurements (inches)
| in | 00 | 0 | 2 | 4 | 6 | 8 | 10 | 12 | 14 | 16 | 18 | 20 | 22 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Waist | 25.0 | 26.0 | 27.1 | 28.1 | 29.0 | 30.0 | 31.0 | 32.6 | 34.4 | 36.7 | 39.0 | 41.2 | 43.5 |
| Hips | 34.5 | 35.5 | 36.5 | 37.5 | 38.6 | 39.5 | 40.5 | 41.9 | 43.7 | 45.5 | 47.5 | 49.5 | 51.5 |
Finished garment measurements (cm)
| cm | 00 | 0 | 2 | 4 | 6 | 8 | 10 | 12 | 14 | 16 | 18 | 20 | 22 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Waist | 65.4 | 67.3 | 70.1 | 72.7 | 75.2 | 77.8 | 80.3 | 84.4 | 89.2 | 95.1 | 101 | 106.8 | 112.7 |
| Hips | 89 | 91 | 94 | 96 | 99 | 101 | 104 | 107 | 112 | 117 | 126 | 131 | 137 |
| Thigh | 57 | 58 | 60 | 62 | 63 | 65 | 66 | 69 | 72 | 75 | 80 | 84 | 87 |
| Knee | 47 | 47 | 49 | 50 | 51 | 53 | 54 | 56 | 58 | 60 | 64 | 67 | 70 |
| Hem opening | 34 | 34 | 35 | 36 | 37 | 38 | 39 | 40 | 41 | 43 | 45 | 46 | 48 |
| Inseam | 70 | 70 | 70 | 69 | 69 | 68 | 68 | 69 | 68 | 67 | 66 | 66 | 65 |
| Front rise | 29 | 29 | 29 | 29 | 30 | 30 | 30 | 31 | 32 | 32 | 33 | 34 | 34 |
| Back rise | 38 | 38 | 39 | 39 | 40 | 41 | 42 | 43 | 44 | 46 | 48 | 49 | 51 |
Fabric and notions per size
| 00 | 0 | 2 | 4 | 6 | 8 | 10 | 12 | 14 | 16 | 18 | 20 | 22 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 150 cm / 60″ wide (m) | 1.5 | 1.5 | 1.5 | 1.5 | 1.5 | 2.1 | 2.1 | 2.1 | 2.1 | 2.2 | 2.2 | 2.2 | 2.2 |
| 115 cm / 45″ wide (m) | 2.3 | 2.3 | 2.3 | 2.3 | 2.3 | 2.3 | 2.3 | 2.3 | 2.3 | 2.5 | 2.5 | 2.5 | 2.5 |
| Lining (m) | 0.4 | 0.4 | 0.4 | 0.4 | 0.4 | 0.4 | 0.4 | 0.4 | 0.4 | 0.4 | 0.4 | 0.4 | 0.4 |
| Interfacing 90 cm / 36″ (m) | 0.4 | 0.4 | 0.4 | 0.4 | 0.4 | 0.4 | 0.4 | 0.4 | 0.4 | 0.4 | 0.4 | 0.4 | 0.4 |
| Zipper (cm) | 20 | 20 | 20 | 20 | 20 | 20 | 20 | 23 | 23 | 23 | 23 | 23 | 23 |
Sewing notes
Fit and style
High waist, curved barrel leg and ankle length, with a fixed waistband for a tailored finish. To shorten or lengthen, cut the front and back across at the knee notches, overlap or spread by the same amount and redraw the seams so the curve stays smooth. Try the pants on before the waistband to adjust the side seams.
Fabrics
Twill, light denim, linen and wool suiting all hold the rounded leg. Never press a sharp crease down the legs, the soft curve is the design. Looking for an elastic back instead? See our Barrel Leg Pants #CS1006.
Cutting out
Fuse the interfacing to the waistband, the fly extension and both welts before marking. Mark the pleats, the back dart, the pocket box and the zipper stop. On 90 cm interfacing, cut the waistband interfacing in two lengths that meet at center back for sizes 10–22.
Step-by-Step Sewing Instructions
Seam allowances are 1 cm (3/8″). Sew with right sides together and finish raw edges as you go. Left and right mean as the pants are worn.
- Fold the front pleats and sew the back darts.
- Sew the slanted front pockets.
- Back welt pockets, part 1: make the welts and stitch the pocket box.
- Back welt pockets, part 2: cut, turn and close the pocket bags.
- Fly zipper, part 1: prepare the fly and attach the zipper to the left front.
- Fly zipper, part 2: topstitch the fly and add the fly shield.
- Sew the inner leg and crotch seams.
- Sew the side seams and try the pants on.
- Attach the waistband.
- Make the buttonhole and sew on the button.
- Hem the legs.
- Final press: press the pleats at the top only.
Stuck on a step? Sew it with pictures.
The steps above are a quick overview. The full illustrated guide walks you through every step with clear drawings: the pleats and darts, the slanted pockets, the back welt pockets, the fly zipper and the waistband. It also includes the A0 pattern file.
- Illustrated diagrams for every step
- Before-you-begin checklist and fit tips
- Video guides with QR codes for the key techniques
- A0 pattern file included
- Printable PDF, instant download
Español · Italiano · Deutsch · Français · Nederlands…
Buy the guide, then email us your language. Free, delivered in 48–72h.
♥ Every guide you buy keeps our patterns free.
Questions
Is the pattern really free?
Yes. The A4 and US Letter pattern files are free. The illustrated step-by-step guide and the A0 file are available for a small coffee.
What is the difference with the Barrel Leg Pants #CS1006?
Same barrel leg, but these have a fixed, buttoned waistband and back darts instead of an elastic back, for a more tailored look.
Can a beginner sew these trousers?
Yes, if you are comfortable with straight seams and pressing. The fly zipper and welt pockets are the slow parts: practise a welt on a scrap first.
Is the seam allowance included?
Yes: 1 cm (3/8″) on every seam, 1.5 cm (5/8″) on the back pocket bags and 2 cm (3/4″) at the hem.
Happy sewing!
