A fitted holiday dress with a clean square neckline, long sleeves softly gathered at the shoulder and a half-circle skirt that swings when you walk. Princess seams shape the bodice front and back, hidden in-seam pockets sit in the side seams, and an invisible zipper closes the center back. Sew it in royal blue velvet for Christmas parties and New Year’s Eve, in wool crepe for winter days, or in a printed viscose for spring.
Download the free PDF sewing pattern in A4 and US Letter, in 13 sizes from XXS to 4XL (US 00–22, plus sizes included), and sew your own square neck velvet dress!
Materials
- Main fabric: 1.8–2.4 m (2–2 5/8 yd) of 150 cm (60″) wide fabric, or 2.3–3.1 m (2 5/8–3 1/2 yd) of 115 cm (45″) wide fabric (see the table below). A light to medium-weight woven with drape: velvet or velveteen, crepe, wool crepe, viscose challis or twill, satin-back crepe, fine corduroy, cotton sateen or taffeta
- Pocket lining: 0.3 m (3/8 yd) of lining, cotton lawn or a light cotton
- Light to medium fusible interfacing: 0.3 m (3/8 yd), for the neck facings
- 1 invisible zipper, 56 cm (22″) or longer
- Matching all-purpose thread, an invisible zipper foot, tailor’s chalk and a tailor’s ham (helpful for the princess seams)
Velvet, corduroy and one-way prints need all pieces cut in the same direction: buy about 30 cm (3/8 yd) extra. No stretch is needed.
Pattern pieces
- Center Front, main fabric: cut 1
- Side Front, main fabric: cut 2 (1 pair)
- Skirt Front, main fabric: cut 1
- Center Back, main fabric: cut 2 (1 pair)
- Side Back, main fabric: cut 2 (1 pair)
- Skirt Back, main fabric: cut 2 (1 pair)
- Sleeve, main fabric: cut 2 (1 pair)
- Front Neck Facing, main fabric + interfacing: cut 1 + 1
- Back Neck Facing, main fabric + interfacing: cut 2 + 2
- Pocket Bag, lining: cut 4 (2 pairs)
The Center Front, Skirt Front and Front Neck Facing are printed whole: cut them from a single layer, right side up, and never on a fold. Fuse the interfacing to both neck facings before you start, and snip the notches no deeper than 3 mm.
Download the free PDF sewing pattern
One file per size, in the paper format that suits you. Share your finished dress with #cozysewpatterns!
A0 + Step-by-step guideGet it here ↓Unzip the folder first. Print page 1 at 100% (actual size) and measure the 10 cm (4″) calibration square before printing the rest. Trim the margins and tape the pages together, matching the markers. The A0 file comes with the illustrated guide below.
Watch the square neck velvet dress
Design details and fit
A feminine party dress with a fitted bodice and a full, easy skirt. Here is what makes it:
- Neckline: square at the front, round at the back, finished with an interfaced facing
- Bodice: shoulder princess seams front and back for a close, smooth fit
- Sleeves: long set-in sleeves with a softly gathered cap
- Skirt: half-circle skirt, about 48 cm (19″) long, ending above the knee
- Pockets: hidden in-seam pockets in both side seams
- Closure: a 56 cm (22″) invisible zipper in the center back seam
- Inside: unlined, neck facing only
The bodice is fitted with about 6 cm (2 3/8″) of ease at the waist seam, while the half-circle skirt leaves the hips free.
Sizing guide
Drafted for a height of 1.68 m (5′6″). Choose your size by your bust measurement, because the bodice is fitted. If your waist falls in another size, blend between the two sizes at the side and princess seams. The skirt is full, so the hips need no change.
Letter sizes: 00 = XXS · 0/2 = XS · 4/6 = S · 8/10 = M · 12/14 = L · 16 = XL · 18 = 2XL · 20 = 3XL · 22 = 4XL
Body measurements (cm)
| cm | 00 | 0 | 2 | 4 | 6 | 8 | 10 | 12 | 14 | 16 | 18 | 20 | 22 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bust | 80 | 82.5 | 85 | 87.8 | 90.3 | 92.8 | 95.3 | 99.3 | 104.3 | 109.3 | 114.3 | 119.3 | 124.3 |
| Waist | 63.5 | 66 | 68.8 | 71.3 | 73.8 | 76.3 | 78.8 | 82.8 | 87.5 | 93.3 | 99 | 104.8 | 110.5 |
| Hips | 87.8 | 90.3 | 92.8 | 95.3 | 98 | 100.3 | 102.8 | 106.5 | 111 | 115.5 | 120.8 | 125.8 | 130.8 |
Body measurements (inches)
| in | 00 | 0 | 2 | 4 | 6 | 8 | 10 | 12 | 14 | 16 | 18 | 20 | 22 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bust | 31.5 | 32.5 | 33.5 | 34.5 | 35.5 | 36.5 | 37.5 | 39.1 | 41.0 | 43.0 | 45.0 | 47.0 | 48.9 |
| Waist | 25.0 | 26.0 | 27.1 | 28.0 | 29.0 | 30.0 | 31.0 | 32.6 | 34.5 | 36.8 | 39.0 | 41.2 | 43.5 |
| Hips | 34.5 | 35.5 | 36.5 | 37.5 | 38.6 | 39.5 | 40.5 | 41.9 | 43.8 | 45.5 | 47.5 | 49.5 | 51.5 |
Finished garment measurements (cm)
| cm | 00 | 0 | 2 | 4 | 6 | 8 | 10 | 12 | 14 | 16 | 18 | 20 | 22 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Waist | 69.6 | 72.2 | 75 | 77.6 | 80.1 | 82.7 | 85.3 | 89.4 | 94.3 | 100.2 | 106.1 | 112 | 117.8 |
| Hem width | 214.7 | 216.8 | 219.9 | 222.5 | 224.9 | 227.5 | 229.6 | 233.9 | 242.7 | 248.2 | 253.7 | 259.6 | 265.4 |
| Back length* | 40.9 | 40.9 | 41 | 41 | 41 | 41 | 41.1 | 41.2 | 41.2 | 41.2 | 41.4 | 41.5 | 41.6 |
| Skirt length** | 48.5 | 48.3 | 48.4 | 48.4 | 48.4 | 48.4 | 48.2 | 48.2 | 48.2 | 48.1 | 47.9 | 47.9 | 47.9 |
| Sleeve length | 61.4 | 61.6 | 61.9 | 62.1 | 62.3 | 62.5 | 62.8 | 63 | 63.2 | 63.3 | 63.5 | 63.8 | 63.8 |
| Wrist | 21.8 | 21.4 | 22.9 | 23.3 | 23.7 | 24.5 | 24.9 | 25.3 | 25.8 | 26.2 | 27 | 27.4 | 27.9 |
Fabric and notions per size
| Sizes 00–6 | Sizes 8–14 | Sizes 16–22 | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Main 150 cm / 60″ | 1.8 m / 2 yd | 2.2 m / 2 1/2 yd | 2.4 m / 2 5/8 yd |
| Main 115 cm / 45″ | 2.3 m / 2 5/8 yd | 2.8 m / 3 1/8 yd | 3.1 m / 3 1/2 yd |
| Pocket lining | 0.3 m / 3/8 yd | 0.3 m / 3/8 yd | 0.3 m / 3/8 yd |
| Interfacing 90 cm / 36″ | 0.3 m / 3/8 yd | 0.3 m / 3/8 yd | 0.3 m / 3/8 yd |
| Invisible zipper | 56 cm (22″) | 56 cm (22″) | 56 cm (22″) |
Common fit adjustments
- Bust and waist in different sizes: cut the bust size and blend to the waist size along the side and princess seams.
- Longer or shorter skirt: add or remove length at the hem, keeping the new line parallel to the curved hemline.
- Sleeve length: lengthen or shorten above the sleeve hem.
- Taller or shorter than 1.68 m: check the back length (about 41 cm / 16 1/8″) against your own nape-to-waist before cutting.
Sewing notes
Fit and style
Press every seam as soon as you sew it, and press the princess seams over a tailor’s ham so the curves keep their shape. Never press velvet flat on its pile: lay it face down on a fluffy towel and steam from the wrong side. Sew a test seam on a scrap first, and use a walking foot on velvet if you have one.
Cutting out
Lay every piece with the grainline parallel to the selvage. For velvet, corduroy or a one-way print, point all pieces the same way, with the pile running down. The skirt pieces are large: on narrow fabric, cut them one at a time from a single layer and turn the paper over for the second Skirt Back. Staystitch the necklines and the curved skirt waist edges as soon as they are cut, so they do not stretch.
Choosing fabric
Best fabrics: light to medium-weight wovens with drape: velvet and velveteen, crepe, wool crepe, viscose challis or twill, satin-back crepe, fine corduroy, cotton sateen, taffeta and soft brocade.
Fabrics to avoid:
- Stiff fabrics like denim or canvas: the half-circle skirt will not drape
- Stretch velvet and knits: the pattern is drafted for wovens and has no stretch ease
- Very thick coating, which is too bulky at the princess seams and the facing
Pre-wash washable fabrics the way you will wash the dress. Velvet is usually dry-clean only, so check the bolt before you buy.
Step-by-Step Sewing Instructions
Seam allowances are 1 cm (3/8″). Sew with right sides together and press every seam as you go.
- Prepare the pieces: fuse the facings, transfer the marks and staystitch.
- Sew the front princess seams.
- Sew the back princess seams.
- Sew the shoulder seams.
- Sew the bodice side seams.
- Gather and set in the sleeves, then hem them.
- Add the in-seam pockets and sew the skirt side seams.
- Join the skirt to the bodice at the waist.
- Insert the invisible zipper and close the center back seam.
- Attach the neck facing, pivoting at the square corners.
- Hem the half-circle skirt.
- Give the dress a final press.
Stuck on a step? Sew it with pictures.
The full illustrated guide for the Square Neck Velvet Dress shows every step in clear drawings, from the princess seams and the gathered sleeve caps to the invisible zipper and the crisp square neckline.
- A diagram for every step, 17 pages
- Size charts, finished measurements and fabric amounts
- Beginner tips + video guides with QR codes
- A0 file included · instant PDF download
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♥ Every guide you buy keeps our patterns free.
Tips and common mistakes
- Rounded neckline corners: shorten the stitch to 1.5 mm near each corner, pivot with the needle down exactly on the corner and clip right up to the stitching.
- Pleats instead of gathers on the sleeve cap: spread the gathers only over the EASE area and pin often before stitching.
- Uneven hem: hang the dress for 24 hours before hemming, because the bias parts of a half-circle skirt drop.
- Crushed velvet: never iron it on the right side; steam from the wrong side over a towel.
- Waist seams that do not meet at the zipper: mark the waist seam on the zipper tape before sewing the second side.
How to style it
- Holiday party: velvet with sheer black tights, pumps or ankle boots and pearl earrings.
- Winter days: in wool crepe with knee boots and a coat on top, like our free Double-Breasted Coat or Fit & Flare Princess Seam Coat.
- Christmas morning: change into something cosy after the party with our Christmas Pajama Set.
- Colour ideas: royal blue, emerald, burgundy or black velvet for the holidays, a floral viscose for spring.
Care
Follow the care advice of your fabric. Velvet is best dry-cleaned or hand-washed cold, then steamed from the wrong side instead of ironed. Close the zipper before washing and hang the dress on a padded hanger.
Questions
Is the pattern really free?
Yes. The A4 and US Letter pattern files are free. The illustrated step-by-step guide and the A0 file are available for a small coffee.
Is this velvet dress hard to sew?
It is a good project for a confident beginner who has sewn a few garments. The new techniques are princess seams, a gathered sleeve cap, an invisible zipper and a square neckline facing. The square corners are the trickiest part, so sew them slowly.
Can I sew it without velvet?
Yes. Crepe, wool crepe, viscose, fine corduroy, cotton sateen and taffeta all work well. Choose a woven with some drape so the half-circle skirt flows.
Does the dress have pockets?
Yes, there are hidden in-seam pockets in both side seams of the skirt.
Which size should I choose?
Choose by your bust measurement, because the bodice is fitted. If your waist is in another size, blend between the sizes at the side and princess seams.
Which paper sizes can I print?
A4 and US Letter are free to download, one file per size. The A0 file comes with the illustrated guide.
What should I sew next?
For a cosy winter dress, try our Corduroy Pinafore Dress #CS1010, and for a coat to wear over this one, the Fit & Flare Princess Seam Coat #CS1022, free too.
Happy sewing!
