A tailored button-front coat with shaped princess seams, a rounded stand-up mandarin collar, long set-in sleeves and two slanted welt pockets set into the front seams. Fitted through the body and flaring gently to the hem, it is a polished wardrobe staple that looks just as good in a classic camel wool as in a soft brushed twill.
Download the free PDF sewing pattern in A4, US Letter and A0, and sew your own handmade coat!
Materials
- Main fabric: 2.75 m (3 yd) stable medium-to-heavy woven: wool or wool-blend coating, melton, or structured brushed twill
- Fusible interfacing: 0.75 m (7/8 yd), for the collar stand, neck facings and welts
- Lining: a small piece of lightweight woven lining for the inner pocket bags
- Buttons: 13 buttons, 1 cm (3/8″) (14 for size 22)
- All-purpose thread and a universal sewing machine needle
Estimates for 140–150 cm (55–59″) wide fabric. A nap, one-way print or pattern matching at the princess seams will need extra fabric.
Pattern pieces
- Center Front, main fabric: cut 2
- Side Front, main fabric: cut 2
- Center Back, main fabric: cut 1 on the fold
- Side Back, main fabric: cut 2
- Sleeve, main fabric: cut 2
- Front Neck Facing, main fabric + interfacing: cut 2 + 2
- Back Neck Facing, main fabric + interfacing: cut 1 + 1
- Collar Stand, main fabric + interfacing: cut 2 + 2
- Welt, main fabric + interfacing: cut 2 + 2
- Inner Pocket Bag, lining: cut 2
- Outer Pocket Bag, main fabric: cut 2
Follow the grainline and fold markings. Cut all the notches, then transfer the pocket lines, button and buttonhole marks and center front/back before you remove the paper.
Download the free PDF sewing pattern
One file per size, in the paper format that suits you. Share your finished coat with #cozysewpatterns!
Print page 1 at 100% (actual size) and measure the calibration square before cutting. Trim the margins and tape the pages together, matching the markers.
Sizing guide
Drafted for a height of 1.68 m (5′6″). Choose your size by bust measurement, then check waist and hips. Between two sizes? Compare the finished measurements with a coat you already love.
Letter sizes: 00/0 = XXS · 2/4 = XS · 6/8 = S · 10/12 = M · 14 = L · 16 = XL · 18 = XXL · 20 = 3XL · 22 = 4XL
Body measurements
| cm | 00 | 0 | 2 | 4 | 6 | 8 | 10 | 12 | 14 | 16 | 18 | 20 | 22 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bust | 80 | 82.5 | 85 | 87.75 | 90.25 | 92.75 | 95.25 | 99.25 | 104.25 | 109.25 | 114.25 | 119.25 | 124.25 |
| Waist | 63.5 | 66 | 68.75 | 71.25 | 73.75 | 76.25 | 78.75 | 82.75 | 87.5 | 93.25 | 99 | 104.75 | 110.5 |
| Hips | 87.75 | 90.25 | 92.75 | 95.25 | 98 | 100.25 | 102.75 | 106.5 | 111 | 115.5 | 120.75 | 125.75 | 130.75 |
Finished garment measurements
| cm | 00 | 0 | 2 | 4 | 6 | 8 | 10 | 12 | 14 | 16 | 18 | 20 | 22 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Front length (HPS to hem) | 99.5 | 99.6 | 100.0 | 100.4 | 100.7 | 101.3 | 101.6 | 102.5 | 103.4 | 104.1 | 104.9 | 105.8 | 106.7 |
| Hem sweep, half | 118.8 | 120.1 | 121.6 | 123.2 | 125.0 | 126.7 | 128.2 | 130.3 | 132.6 | 135.4 | 138.1 | 140.9 | 143.5 |
| Across chest, half | 42.8 | 44.0 | 45.2 | 46.6 | 47.9 | 49.1 | 50.4 | 52.4 | 55.0 | 57.5 | 60.1 | 62.6 | 65.2 |
| Sleeve length | 57.9 | 57.9 | 58.0 | 58.0 | 58.0 | 58.1 | 58.1 | 58.2 | 58.2 | 58.3 | 58.4 | 58.5 | 58.5 |
Fabric and notions per size
| 00 | 0 | 2 | 4 | 6 | 8 | 10 | 12 | 14 | 16 | 18 | 20 | 22 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main fabric (m) | 2.75 | 2.75 | 2.75 | 2.75 | 2.75 | 2.75 | 2.75 | 2.75 | 2.75 | 2.75 | 2.75 | 2.75 | 2.75 |
| Interfacing (m) | 0.75 | 0.75 | 0.75 | 0.75 | 0.75 | 0.75 | 0.75 | 0.75 | 0.75 | 0.75 | 0.75 | 0.75 | 0.75 |
| Buttons | 13 | 13 | 13 | 13 | 13 | 13 | 13 | 13 | 13 | 13 | 13 | 13 | 14 |
Sewing notes
Fit and style
The princess seams give a close, tailored fit through the body. Pick your size by bust, then check the finished across-chest measurement for the amount of ease you like. There is no lining pattern, so the inside is finished with facings and neat seam finishes.
Fabrics
Choose a stable medium-to-heavy woven with some body. Wool coating or melton keeps the collar and welt openings crisp; brushed twill gives a softer hand. Avoid stretch knits and loose, drapey weaves.
Cutting out
Pre-treat your fabric the way you will wash the finished coat. Fuse the interfacing to the collar stand, neck facings and welts before cutting the rest.
Sewing steps
Seam allowances are 1 cm (3/8″). Sew with right sides together and finish raw edges with an overlocker or zigzag as you go.
- Sew the front princess seams. Join the Side Fronts to the Center Front, clip the curves, press open and staystitch the neckline.
- Sew the back princess seams. Join the Side Backs to the Center Back, clip, press open and staystitch.
- Make the slanted welt pockets in the front princess seams.
- Sew the shoulders and press the seams open.
- Make and attach the rounded mandarin collar.
- Attach the neck facings, understitch, then make the buttonholes and sew on the buttons.
- Sew the side seams and set in the sleeves, easing the sleeve cap.
- Hem the coat with a 2 cm (7/8″) turned hem, easing the curve. Press.
Sew it step by step, with a diagram for every step
The steps above are a quick overview. The full illustrated guide walks you through every step with clear drawings: the welt pockets, the collar stand, the facings and the set-in sleeve.
- Illustrated diagrams for every step
- Symbols and sewing terms explained
- All sizing, fabric and button tables in one place
- Printable PDF, instant download
Your support keeps the patterns free.
Questions
Is the pattern really free?
Yes. The A4, US Letter and A0 pattern files are free. Only the illustrated step-by-step guide is paid.
Is the seam allowance included?
Yes: 1 cm (3/8″) on every seam and 2 cm (7/8″) at the hem.
Is the coat lined?
No. The coat is finished with neck facings and neat seam finishes; only the pocket bags use lining fabric.
Can I make it shorter?
Yes. Shorten the front and back pieces by the same amount at the hem, keeping the flare of the princess seams.
Happy sewing!