Mandarin Collar Coat Free Sewing Pattern PDF (XXS–4XL)

A tailored button-front coat with shaped princess seams, a rounded stand-up mandarin collar, long set-in sleeves and two slanted welt pockets set into the front seams. Fitted through the body and flaring gently to the hem, it is a polished wardrobe staple that looks just as good in a classic camel wool as in a soft brushed twill.

Download the free PDF sewing pattern in A4 and US Letter, and sew your own handmade coat!

Materials

• Main fabric: 2.75 m (3 yd) stable medium-to-heavy woven: wool or wool-blend coating, melton, or structured brushed twill
• Fusible interfacing: 0.75 m (7/8 yd), for the collar stand, neck facings and welts
• Lining: a small piece of lightweight woven lining for the inner pocket bags
• Buttons: 13 buttons, 1 cm (3/8″) (14 for size 22)
• All-purpose thread and a universal sewing machine needle

Estimates for 140–150 cm (55–59″) wide fabric. A nap, one-way print or pattern matching at the princess seams will need extra fabric.

Pattern pieces

• Center Front, main fabric: cut 2
• Side Front, main fabric: cut 2
• Center Back, main fabric: cut 1 on the fold
• Side Back, main fabric: cut 2
• Sleeve, main fabric: cut 2
• Front Neck Facing, main fabric + interfacing: cut 2 + 2
• Back Neck Facing, main fabric + interfacing: cut 1 + 1
• Collar Stand, main fabric + interfacing: cut 2 + 2
• Welt, main fabric + interfacing: cut 2 + 2
• Inner Pocket Bag, lining: cut 2
• Outer Pocket Bag, main fabric: cut 2

Follow the grainline and fold markings. Cut all the notches, then transfer the pocket lines, button and buttonhole marks and center front/back before you remove the paper.

Download the free PDF sewing pattern

One file per size, in the paper format that suits you. Share your finished coat with #cozysewpatterns!

Print page 1 at 100% (actual size) and measure the calibration square before cutting. Trim the margins and tape the pages together, matching the markers.

Design details and fit

A fitted, knee-length coat with a vintage feel: it follows your waist closely, then flares out into a full, swingy skirt. Here is what makes it:

• Shaping: armhole princess seams at the front and back
• Silhouette: fitted waist and a flared, knee-length skirt
• Collar: a rounded mandarin collar stand
• Front: a long row of 13 small buttons (14 for size 22)
• Pockets: two slanted single welt pockets
• Sleeves: full-length set-in sleeves
• Inside: unlined, with interfaced front and neck facings

The coat is fitted at the waist with about 7–8 cm (2 3/4–3 1/8″) of ease, so it sits nicely over a blouse or a fine knit rather than a thick sweater.

Sizing guide

Drafted for a height of 1.68 m (5′6″). Choose your size by bust measurement, then check waist and hips. Between two sizes? Compare the finished measurements with a coat you already love.

Letter sizes: 00/0 = XXS · 2/4 = XS · 6/8 = S · 10/12 = M · 14 = L · 16 = XL · 18 = XXL · 20 = 3XL · 22 = 4XL

Body measurements

cm	00	0	2	4	6	8	10	12	14	16	18	20	22
Bust	80	82.5	85	87.75	90.25	92.75	95.25	99.25	104.25	109.25	114.25	119.25	124.25
Waist	63.5	66	68.75	71.25	73.75	76.25	78.75	82.75	87.5	93.25	99	104.75	110.5
Hips	87.75	90.25	92.75	95.25	98	100.25	102.75	106.5	111	115.5	120.75	125.75	130.75

Finished garment measurements

cm	00	0	2	4	6	8	10	12	14	16	18	20	22
Front length (HPS to hem)	99.5	99.6	100.0	100.4	100.7	101.3	101.6	102.5	103.4	104.1	104.9	105.8	106.7
Hem sweep, half	118.8	120.1	121.6	123.2	125.0	126.7	128.2	130.3	132.6	135.4	138.1	140.9	143.5
Across chest, half	42.8	44.0	45.2	46.6	47.9	49.1	50.4	52.4	55.0	57.5	60.1	62.6	65.2
Sleeve length	57.9	57.9	58.0	58.0	58.0	58.1	58.1	58.2	58.2	58.3	58.4	58.5	58.5

Fabric and notions per size

	00	0	2	4	6	8	10	12	14	16	18	20	22
Main fabric (m)	2.75	2.75	2.75	2.75	2.75	2.75	2.75	2.75	2.75	2.75	2.75	2.75	2.75
Interfacing (m)	0.75	0.75	0.75	0.75	0.75	0.75	0.75	0.75	0.75	0.75	0.75	0.75	0.75
Buttons	13	13	13	13	13	13	13	13	13	13	13	13	14

Common fit adjustments

• Longer or shorter coat: change the lower edge of the Center Front, Side Front, Center Back, Side Back and Front Neck Facing by the same amount, following the flare of the side lines.
• Choose by bust, check the waist: compare the finished waist with your own; if you are between sizes there, take the larger one.
• Over thicker layers: the coat is made for a blouse or fine knit; for a chunky sweater, go up one size.
• Sleeve length: compare with a coat you own and adjust at the lower sleeve edge before cutting.

Sewing notes

Fit and style

The princess seams give a close, tailored fit through the body. Pick your size by bust, then check the finished across-chest measurement for the amount of ease you like. There is no lining pattern, so the inside is finished with facings and neat seam finishes.

Cutting out

Pre-treat your fabric the way you will wash the finished coat. Fuse the interfacing to the collar stand, neck facings and welts before cutting the rest.

Choosing fabric

Best fabrics: medium-weight woven coatings that press well and hold a crisp collar: wool coating, wool-blend coating, wool flannel, light melton, cashmere blend, fine tweed or heavy wool crepe. For a spring coat, try cotton twill, gabardine or fine corduroy.

Fabrics to avoid:

• Very thick or fluffy coatings: the collar, pockets and 13 buttonholes get too bulky
• Stretch fabrics, which lose the fitted shape
• Fabrics that fray a lot: the coat is unlined, so the inside shows

Pre-wash or steam your fabric the way you will care for the coat, and add 10–15% for plaids, stripes, velvet or one-way prints.

Step-by-Step Sewing Instructions

Seam allowances are 1 cm (3/8″). Sew with right sides together and finish raw edges with an overlocker or zigzag as you go.

1. Sew the front princess seams. Join the Side Fronts to the Center Front, clip the curves, press open and staystitch the neckline.
2. Sew the back princess seams. Join the Side Backs to the Center Back, clip, press open and staystitch.
3. Make the slanted welt pockets in the front princess seams.
4. Sew the shoulders and press the seams open.
5. Make and attach the rounded mandarin collar.
6. Attach the neck facings, understitch, then make the buttonholes and sew on the buttons.
7. Sew the side seams and set in the sleeves, easing the sleeve cap.
8. Hem the coat with a 2 cm (7/8″) turned hem, easing the curve. Press.

Tips and common mistakes

• Wobbly welt pockets: make one on a scrap first, mark the box precisely, stitch both lines exactly the same length and cut right up to the corners.
• Stretched princess seams: press, lift and move the iron instead of sliding it, and let the fabric cool flat.
• Shiny wool: always press through a pressing cloth with a medium-hot iron and plenty of steam.
• Uneven buttonholes: test one on your fabric with interfacing, then mark all 13 from the pattern before you start.
• Messy inside: finish each seam allowance as you go, or bind them with bias tape for a Hong Kong finish.

How to style it

• Winter elegance: with knee-high boots, as in the photo.
• Office: over our free Fitted Turtleneck Top and a midi skirt.
• Colour ideas: camel or grey wool for a classic, or deep burgundy or emerald for the holidays.
• More coats: for a rounded collar and flap pockets, see our Fit & Flare Princess Seam Coat.

Care

Follow the care instructions of your fabric. For wool and wool blends, dry-clean or hand-wash cold and dry flat. Store the coat on a padded hanger so the shoulders keep their shape.

Questions

Is the pattern really free?

Yes. The A4 and US Letter pattern files are free. The illustrated step-by-step guide and the A0 file are available for a small coffee.

Is the seam allowance included?

Yes: 1 cm (3/8″) on every seam and 2 cm (7/8″) at the hem.

Is the coat lined?

No. The coat is finished with neck facings and neat seam finishes; only the pocket bags use lining fabric.

Which size should I choose?

Choose by your bust, then check the finished waist: the coat is fitted there. Between two sizes at the waist, take the larger one.

Is it suitable for beginners?

It is an intermediate project. The princess seams and facings are simple when you sew slowly; the welt pockets and the 13 buttonholes need patience, so test them on a scrap first.

Can I make it shorter?

Yes. Shorten the front and back pieces by the same amount at the hem, keeping the flare of the princess seams.

Happy sewing!

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